Lopburi
- Khao Cheen Lair
The
development at Khao Cheen Lair continue. Just two hours way from
Bangkok and with some great limestone this continues to be the
focus of routing activities for Bangkokians. There has been 14
new routes added (5 - 6c+) over the last couple of years. David
Estey has led the charge on this after his initial discovery of
the crag and Jack is keeping it going. More to follow.
For
more up to date info http://bongkak.com/
|
Ong
on Hit the Rock Jack 6b |
In
general
The
cliff is about 180 metres high from its base which is already about
200 metres from sea level once you have climbed through the temple.
About 40 percent of the routes need no gardening and the rock is
generally very good. It is loose in one or two places. There are
probably 7 or 8 pitches to the very top and room for 100+ routes.
The crag has about 12 routes on it (as of October 2002) from 5 -
6c+ and lots of potential for more. There is a great pinnacle pictured
on the left here with two-pitch climb right to the top.
A
Special Note - very important
As
with many crags in Thailand Khao Jeen Lair is accessed via a temple
and is a sacred place of worship. To get to the cliff you actually
have to walk through the temple and up to the main face. The head-monk
has requested that all climbers come and say hello before going
up. Furthermore, there is actually a sacred cave in the cliff. They
have asked directly that no-one climb above the cave at all. If
access is to be maintained it is essential that this is observed.
The monks are friendly and welcoming and of course always happy
to receive donations and see people making merit.
How
to get there
Take
the main road out of Bangkok and follow the signs for Lopburi. This
will be go past Don Muang and then onto Saraburi.
About
5km before the town of Lopburi you will see a MINEBEA factory on
the right. Slow down and take a right turn for Patana Nikom just
past the factory (road number 3017). Go down this road for about
5km. You should see some cliffs off in the distance on your left
and come to a turning in that direction.
|
|
David
(Lopburi's chief pioneer) points the way for the left turn
you have gone about 5km down the road from Minebea |
Side
view of Lopburi. The climbing is on the right. |
Once
you have taken the left-turn illustrated by David, go straight for
about 1km until you come to a T-juntion, turn left and you can drive
straight ahead to the temple at the foot of the crag. You will see
Khao Cheen Lair ahead. The temple is at the bottom of the cliff.
Just park up at the bottom.
I
recommend you download the maps and list of climbs in Adobe format.
Download
now.
Once
you get to the Wat
The
Wat is called Wat Pa Suwannahong. You will have to walk up the hill
to the start of the crag. It is essential
that you ask the Monk's permission to go up to the cliff. They are
very friendly and helpful, but do like to be asked.
Khao
Cheen Lair is the needle in the middle of the picture. The rock
on the right also has a temple there. This is the wrong one.
Situation
Once
you have climbed the steps to the base of the crag, but once you
arrive you are rewarded with a great view of the valley and once
on the routes, it only gets better.
The
grades
5b
- 6c+
Time
of day to climb
All day shade.
The
Gear
The
routes are bolted with good anchors
The
Routes
There
are three main areas. The temple wall with about 10 routes and the
easter island area with the pinnacle and about four other routes.
Topo to follow but for now you can download a list of routes. Download
now |
