Climbing in Thailand - Trip Report

April and December 2002 - A new guide and a whole lot of changes

Anyone who does a web-site purely for the fun of it will tell you that you interest comes in peaks and troughs. Mine waned through the period of injury that has bugged me for the last couple of years. I drifted away from my climbing friends, lost my strength in my arms and found other things to occupy my time like Triathlon and Wake-boarding.

I headed back to Krabi recently to see if my shoulder would hold up to a some time back on the rock. Delighted to see that my visit coincided with my friends heading down there from Bangkok, I grabbed my dusty gear from under the bed and headed off.

What follows may seem a bit negative, but it should be set against the idea that climbing in Krabi remains heaven on Earth. The rock and sun make this one of the World's best places to be. Bear this in mind when you read on.

Some things really suprised me: In the last two years prices have risen significantly. With inflation running at just 2 percent here in Thailand, demand and supply (along with a bit of profiteering) can be the only reason for this.

The cost of a boat from Krabi town to Railey is now 70 Baht minimum. This is kind of understandable, oil prices have risen significantly and although it is a 40 percent increase, it is negligible for most travelers.

The costs of climbing schools have risen to 800, 1500 and 3000 Baht from 500, 1000 and 3000 Baht for a 1/2 day, full day and 3 days course prospectively. What can I say? Climbing schools are businesses and they don't make huge profits. That said a 66 percent increase in the three day course seems steep.

The fall of Railey

Accommodation in Railey is now becoming simply outrageous. I would put it as one of the most expensive places in Thailand. Railey Village etc are asking 2000 Baht for a room which is worth about 1000 Baht in the Bangkok, Phuket or Samui. Even the humble Ya-Ya's wants 550 Baht for a room worth 200 Baht anywhere else in Thailand. Space is limited, tourist numbers are up and Railey is pricing itself out of the budget travelers limits. It seems quite quiet at night and the punters are less and less likely to be climbers. Yet, people must be paying it or the prices would drop.

The rise of Ton Sai

Just 10 minutes walk from Railey, Ton Sai used to be where the big strong boys hung out. The sacrifice in terms of nightlife was worth it for the proximity to the 7a and up mecca of Ton Sai. The over pricing of Railey has changed all this. There are many more rooms on Ton Sai now (200+, my Thai friend tells me). There are more bars, a climbing shop and at least two general stores. The vast majority of places are in the 200 - 400 Baht price range and although not the most luxurious of places, they are clean and good for a long term stay. The crowd are all travelers or climbers and if you want to hook-up with someone or don't like washing your clothes this is your place. If you are planning to stay for more than a few days I don't know how you could afford to stay anywhere else. I moved here after a couple of days and preferred it.

Being ripped off?

I have been in Thailand five years now and feel I don't get ripped off that much. Of course we all feel that, but being able to speak Thai and experience give me a good idea of prices. The shops in both Ton Sai and Railey are making the most of their position. A bottle of water that costs 4 Baht in Bangkok costs 15 Baht in some places. A Gatorade is 20 Baht in Bangkok, 40 Baht in Railey. Food in restaurants is the same (except Co-Co's on Railey which stays cheap and good for both food and accommodation).

People are in business and their aim is to make money. I am not bitching. You make the choice to buy or not. When you walk between Railey West and Railey East. You will see a brand new stunning mansion. This is the owner of the property between the two beaches. Clearly doing well.

Thai tourism doesn't care where the money comes from and Ton Sai is exploiting Railey's change in emphasis. Will there be a day when Ton Sai will move up market and the climber and back-packer will be without anywhere to go?

December 2002

This years high season has seen more people than ever. The lights put up between Railey and Ton Sai see even more people coming over and the spread of accommodation continues. Part of life I guess but I can't help preferring it before.